Riviera Nayarit, Mexico

Already a popular resort destination, Mexico's Banderas Bay now offers cruisers a wide range of nautical amenities.

West Coast boaters who push their cruising horizons south of the border typically set their sights on Cabo San Lucas and the ports and islands of the Sea of Cortez. A lesser number, having already made the thousand-mile voyage along the Baja coastline, are willing to tack on a couple more days at sea and head for the Mexican mainland.

Once on the mainland, boaters can enjoy a number of picturesque anchorages and coastal villages stretching south from Mazatlan. But anyone seeking a full range of nautical services and shore-side diversions will likely end up on Banderas Bay. As the largest sheltered body of water on Mexico's west coast, the bay is a mecca for yachtsmen, windsurfers and vacationers from interior Mexico as well as the United States.

The Ameca River divides the bay into the state of Jalisco to the south and Nayarit to the north. In years past, the primary option for dock-bound cruisers was Puerto Vallarta, where one has access to an international airport and provisioning options that include such big-box standards as Costco and the Home Depot. More recently, a wave of development to the north has not only added several first-class marinas to the coastline but also an accompanying array of luxury hotels and eateries, golf courses and service facilities.

Just across the river from downtown, Nuevo Vallarta welcomes boaters to a residential and recreational enclave where condos and all-inclusive resorts draw both snowbirds from the United States and Canada and affluent nationals from Mexico City. With its shopping mall, yacht club, spas and numerous high-end restaurants, Nuevo Vallarta appeals to vacationers who enjoy having a wide range of familiar comforts close at hand, often without the need to speak Spanish to obtain service.

Those seeking a bit more local flavor now have a new option. Snuggled into the northeastern corner of the bay, the picturesque fishing village of La Cruz de Huanacaxtle has long been a favorite with bluewater sailors who would drop the hook off the town's open roadstead and dinghy ashore to the small breakwater used by local fishermen. This changed last year when a group of local businessmen set a project in motion that would transform the sleepy waterfront into what is now becoming the premier marina facility on Mexico's central west coast.

By early 2009, an expansive breakwater was completed, and the 340-slip Marina Riviera Nayarit opened amid fanfare that included a two-week-long nautical fiesta, regattas, a boat show and a visit from Mexico's president. A year later, the marina complex now includes a yacht club, several waterfront restaurants and a growing number of marine-related businesses and services, including the largest travel lift in the region.

These waterfront developments have so far had minimal impact on the adjacent town of La Cruz. Save for a solitary Subway restaurant on a far corner of the town park, the cobblestone streets and colorful homes look much the same as when the first wave of U.S. expats first sailed down from California two decades ago. A few pesos will still buy a fresh fish taco, served through a street-side kitchen window, and local fishing pangas still grace the waterfront - though they now may be keeping company with a few megayachts.

La Cruz is not only a desirable destination but also a logical launching point for forays to beachside villages to the north or into Nayarit's mountains and forests. The area's recreational options range from bird watching and hiking in the forest to surfing, beachcombing or gallery browsing in towns such Sayulita and San Blas. For those looking to indulge, the dramatic bluffs of Punta Mita are now home to several five-star properties, while the more adventurous can hire a four-wheel-drive vehicle and head to the mountains to discover a part of Mexico that remains largely untouched by paved roads and Internet cafes.

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NUEVO VALLARTA lures boaters with upscale resort amenities and firstclass marinas (top). Luxury is tempered with local character at many beachside resorts (right).

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LA CRUZ is home to the region's newest marina. A performer at Las Caletas (bottom right).

Where to Stay

Cruisers who prefer to be close to the action can now enjoy first-class dockage located within a few minutes of downtown Puerto Vallarta and the beachside resort district. The Marina Vallarta (011-52- 322-221-0073) development includes a golf course, 450-slip marina, a water park and a number of upscale hotels, all set along a waterfront boardwalk lined by shops, galleries and cafes. A few miles to the north, the upscale resort area known as Nuevo Vallarta offers a cloistered oasis of luxury hotels, golf courses and upscale restaurants. In the heart of things is the Paradise Village Marina (paradisevillage marina.com), which offers 200 slips for vessels up to 240 feet. Guests enjoy access to amenities at the adjacent luxury hotel, which includes a swimming pool, spa, shopping village and concierge service. Just across the channel, the Marina Nuevo Vallarta (marinanuevovallarta.com) is currently undergoing a major renovation which, when completed, will offer another full-service option for transient vessels. The region's newest marine facility, the Marina Riviera Nayarit (marina rivieranayarit.com), was completed in early 2010. Located some 15 miles north of Puerto Vallarta, it is a world-class marina but is not part of a luxury development. Instead, it is part of the picturesque fishing village of La Cruz de Huanacaxtle, which offers a pleasant, low-key alternative to the southern resorts.

What to Do

Puerto Vallarta and Banderas Bay offer a wide range of recreational activities that includes numerous golf courses, beach resorts and every type of water sport, from parasailing and scuba diving to deep-sea fishing. In March, the Banderas Bay Regatta draws sailors from around the world, while November marks both the Festival de las Artes and the Festival Gourmet International.