RETRO COOL

A Ping-Pong table just this side of the outdoor eating area. A shuffleboard game inside, opposite a gaggle of retro booths. Old kitchen appliances and a huge white porcelain sink off to one side just before the entry into a dining room that's fitted out with more booths. A bar that goes back to another era. This is only part of what Ethyl's Beer & Wine Dive is all about.

And, quite surprisingly, despite all of this Li'l Abner detritus, Ethyl's, thanks to consulting chef Luigi Negroni and chef Jaysen Euler, is pumping out some very good food. Real food, yummy food, the kind of food that real eaters eat.

At Ethyl's, despite the deviled eggs (trend du jour), burgers, wings …